Features Overview

Sacai Spring 2020

Ahhh, Spring. Florals, coral lipstick, and first love all come to mind, but not if that mind belongs to Chitose Abe. As always, her avant-garde label Sacai is unexpected and deceivingly random, eschewing the typical signs of the season with a Spring collection that feels like winter’s after-party— where everyone lets their guard down and just decides to have fun. The tuxedo is transformed into a loose flowing jumpsuit, shirts are unbuttoned and bow ties untied. Everything is just a little un-done in the very best of ways. 

Sequin jackets suggest there was in fact a party, but layered over trousers and under T-shirts hint that the real fun is about to begin. Deconstructed suits imply the sleeves were ripped off in a fit of wild abandon, semi-detached waistbands, pocket-strewn chiffon, and multi-belted coats all suggest an atmosphere of anticipation. As if they were pulled from their hangers and thrown on without care, the un-layered layered looks sartorially scream, “Let’s hurry up and get there!” 

The perceived chaos, is all precisely planned by the clever Chitose Abe. Bucket hats only appear as though they were placed askew, with their asymmetric side brims and Fedora-style grosgrain bands. Jackets secured at the side give the illusion of a button mishap. Even the inclusion of The Big Lebowski T-shirts is no happy accident. Where else might one go to borrow some subversive words than the equally clever yet seemingly haphazard minds of the Coen Brothers?

With this collection, Sacai is the unexpected-but-so-glad-you-came guest, and the life of the party. 

Dries Van Noten WRTW Fall 2019

When news broke a little over a year ago that Dries Van Noten, one of the last independent fashion houses, sold a majority stake to the Spanish-owned Puig, people were concerned. Would there be a new direction? Would Dries somehow be different? Apparently, and thankfully, it seems the answer is no and NO.

This Women’s Fall 2019 collection, now seen in stores and online, is a resounding sigh of relief. Yes, the darker shades of grey are comfortingly familiar, but this Fall is alive, quite literally alive with flowers. The florals aren’t flat and wallpaper-y— they’re vibrant and bright in high-summer hues that feel natural, as if a seed was genetically engineered to grow on fabric. Flowers hand-picked from Van Noten’s own garden in Antwerp are depicted in photo-real quality, rendered in beads, and shadow-y silhouettes. Their imperfect perfection is translated into what fall should be, a celebration of abundance and a deep appreciation of fleeting beauty.

The use of color alone would be enough to sustain a cold dark winter, but that is only scratching the surface. The artful silhouette of the designs demand full attention. The bold shoulder look revealed in Spring continues here. At times concealed by a slightly oversized blazer and at others, covered in gold sequins (another thread line from Spring) exposed under the thin straps of a long black slipdress. Then there’s the draping. Subtle, perfectly placed pick-ups and tucks feel like the chic grown-up version of ruffles. A bit of noir sensibility slips in with opera-length gloves in leather or mesh patterned with a tattoo-esque version of (what else?) the flowers. As always, coats take center stage with dramatic puffers, knee-length toppers, colorful faux-fur chubbys, and almost traditional trenches in varying lengths.

Fashion collectors take note, investment pieces abound. Never doubt Dries Van Noten.